One of Hong Kong’s celebrated purveyors of “soy sauce western” cuisine, Sammy’s Kitchen in Sai Ying Pun, is closing its doors on January 31, 2024, concluding 55 years of operation. The decision, driven by necessary major interior renovations following issues like decay and leaks, halts the run of a beloved local institution synonymous with nostalgic Hong Kong dining culture. While second-generation owner Miss Yip expressed hope for a future reopening post-renovation, no immediate timeline for resumption has been established, leaving the status of this historical culinary landmark uncertain as it prepares for its last day of service.
A Legacy of Local Fusion Dining
Established in 1969 by founder Sammy Yip and two partners, Sammy’s Kitchen initially launched on Hong Kong Island’s west side before moving to its current location on Queen’s Road West. The restaurant specialized in “soy sauce western” fare—a unique, hyper-localized adaptation of Western dishes using Hong Kong culinary techniques and flavours. This genre represents a significant facet of Hong Kong’s culinary identity, blending European concepts with local ingredients and preparation styles.
Mr. Yip’s professional journey began after immigrating from mainland China, transitioning from a role at The Repulse Bay to honing his skills as a chef and waiter in prestigious establishments, including The Peninsula, Mandarin Oriental, and the Hilton. These experiences not only refined his culinary expertise but also garnered connections that initially propelled Sammy’s Kitchen to fame.
In its early days, the establishment became renowned as a “celebrity’s canteen,” attracting an illustrious clientele. Notable historical figures like former Hong Kong governors Murray MacLehose and Edward Youde, former UK Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, and local stars like Stephen Chow were among the esteemed diners.
The Enduring Allure of Sammy’s Signature Dishes
Sammy’s Kitchen was cherished by the Sai Ying Pun community for its grounded atmosphere, affordable prices, and authentic dishes. Despite the passage of decades, the restaurant maintained its rustic, post-war decor, offering patrons a genuine step back in time.
The menu’s standout feature was its signature steak sets, invariably accompanied by Mr. Yip’s unique peppercorn dressing, affectionately known as “Sammy’s Sauce.” This complex sauce, made with ingredients like black peppercorn, mushrooms, bacon, and onions, was lauded by regulars for adding an essential layer of flavour to the steak. Other menu favourites included the Beef Wellington and Crêpes Suzette.
The restaurant also holds a unique place in the city’s architectural history. Until 2015, its exterior was illuminated by a massive “Sammy’s Cow” neon sign, an iconic piece of Hong Kong visual culture. When government regulations deemed the sign an illegal structure, it was removed and subsequently added to the preservation programme of the city’s contemporary art museum, M+.
Challenges Mount Despite Resilience
The closure comes despite the restaurant’s historical resilience; Sammy’s Kitchen successfully navigated major economic and health crises, including the 1997 financial crisis, the SARS epidemic, and the initial turbulence of the COVID-19 pandemic. However, according to Miss Yip, the ongoing recovery post-pandemic, combined with the pressing need for structural repairs, presented insurmountable challenges under current conditions.
Miss Yip conveyed the difficult decision with a mix of lament and hope, expressing a strong desire to one day reunite the restaurant with its loyal customer base.
The temporary ceasing of operations at Sammy’s Kitchen contributes to the growing attrition rate of historic “soy sauce western” establishments across Hong Kong. As this cultural genre faces increasing pressure, the remaining few, such as Tai Ping Koon, Boston Restaurant, and Golden Phoenix, carry an even greater responsibility for preserving this unique facet of local heritage dining.
Diners wishing to experience Sammy’s signature flavours—and its historical ambiance—one last time are encouraged to visit before the final operational day on January 31st.
