Category: Street Food

Hong Kong’s culinary scene is a vibrant tapestry of flavors, and few dishes capture its essence like Char Siu (叉燒) — the iconic Cantonese barbecued pork. Glazed with a sweet-savory marinade and roasted to caramelized perfection, Char Siu is a must-try for food lovers. In this guide, we’ll explore its history, what makes it unique, and where to find the best Char Siu in Hong Kong, plus tips to enjoy it like a local.

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What is Char Siu? A Bite of History

Char Siu, meaning “fork-roasted,” dates back to ancient Cantonese barbecue traditions. Originally cooked on skewers over open fires, the dish evolved in Hong Kong into the tender, glossy-red pork we know today. The marinade—a blend of honey, soy sauce, hoisin, fermented bean curd, and spices—gives it its signature balance of sweetness and umami. Traditionally made with pork belly or loin, it’s roasted in specialized ovens until the edges char and the fat melts into succulence.

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What Makes Hong Kong-Style Char Siu Special?

1. The Marinade: Authentic Hong Kong Char Siu uses red fermented bean curd (nam yue) for depth and a subtle tang, along with maltose or honey for stickiness.
2. The Cut: While leaner cuts are popular, locals often prefer half-fat, half-lean pork (花叉) for its juicy texture.
3. The Roast: Master chefs use wood-fired ovens or charcoal grills to infuse smoky notes, achieving a crisp exterior and tender interior.

Pro tip: Look for a glossy, deep-red hue with blackened edges — the mark of expertly roasted Char Siu.

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Top 5 Places for the Best Char Siu in Hong Kong

1. Joy Hing Roasted Meat (再興燒臘飯店)
   • Why go: A 100-year-old institution famed for its melt-in-the-mouth pork and secret family recipe.
   • Must-order: Char Siu rice with a side of crispy pork belly.
   • Location: 265 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai.
2. Kam’s Roast Goose (甘牌燒鵝)
   • Why go: Michelin-starred perfection. Their Char Siu is caramelized, smoky, and flawlessly tender.
   • Must-order: Char Siu with honey glaze.
   • Location: G/F, 226 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai.
3. Yat Lok Restaurant (一樂燒鵝)
   • Why go: Another Michelin favorite, known for its crispy-edged, fatty Char Siu.
   • Must-order: Char Siu noodles in soy sauce broth.
   • Location: 34-38 Stanley Street, Central.
4. Sun Hang Yuen (新香園)
   • Why go: A hidden gem in Sham Shui Po, beloved for its juicy, well-marbled pork.
   • Must-order: Char Siu with a side of milk tea.
   • Location: 55 Kweilin Street, Sham Shui Po.
5. Mott 32
   • Why go: Luxurious twist on tradition. Their Iberico pork Char Siu is rich and velvety.
   • Must-order: Iberico Char Siu with yellow mountain honey.
   • Location: Standard Chartered Bank Building, Central.

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How to Enjoy Char Siu Like a Hong Kong Local

• Pair it right: Order it with steamed rice, chewy lo mein noodles, or in a pineapple bun (叉燒包) for a classic dim sum experience.
• Sauce matters: Dip it in hoisin sauce or a mix of chili oil and soy sauce.
• Timing is key: Visit BBQ shops early (before noon) for the first batch — the juiciest cuts sell out fast!

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Make Char Siu at Home: A Simplified Recipe

Craving Hong Kong flavors abroad? Try this easy recipe:

Ingredients:

• 1 lb pork shoulder (fatty cut)
• 2 tbsp red fermented bean curd
• 2 tbsp honey
• 1 tbsp hoisin sauce
• 1 tsp five-spice powder

Steps:

1. Marinate pork overnight in a mix of bean curd, honey, hoisin, five-spice, and soy sauce.
2. Roast at 375°F (190°C) for 25 minutes, basting with honey twice.
3. Broil for 5 minutes to char the edges. Slice and serve!

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• Ask for “half-fatty” (半肥瘦) at BBQ shops for the ideal meat-to-fat ratio.
• Explore dai pai dongs (street food stalls) for affordable, authentic options.
• Pair with pickled ginger to cut through the richness.

Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned foodie, Char Siu is a dish that defines Hong Kong’s culinary soul. Bookmark this guide, follow the aroma of roasting pork, and savor every bite of this Cantonese masterpiece.

Nestled in the bustling heart of Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong, Chungking Mansions is more than just a towering concrete maze—it’s a cultural melting pot and a food lover’s paradise. Famous for its vibrant mix of international cuisines and its starring role in Wong Kar-Wai’s iconic film Chungking Express, this legendary building offers an unforgettable dining experience. Whether you’re a fan of the dreamy cinematography of Wong Kar-Wai or simply craving authentic global flavors, here’s your ultimate guide to eating in Chungking Mansions.

Why Chungking Mansions Is a Must-Visit for Food and Film Lovers

Chungking Mansions, located at 36-44 Nathan Road, has long been a hub for travelers, traders, and locals seeking affordable eats and a taste of the world. With its narrow corridors, flickering neon signs, and eclectic energy, it’s no wonder this 17-story complex caught the eye of visionary filmmaker Wong Kar-Wai. His 1994 masterpiece Chungking Express immortalized the building, weaving its chaotic charm into a tale of love, longing, and late-night snacks. The film’s raw, handheld shots of the ground floor and its moody atmosphere still draw cinephiles to explore its real-life counterpart.

But beyond its cinematic fame, Chungking Mansions is a treasure trove of culinary delights. From spicy Indian curries to hearty African stews, the building’s eateries reflect the diverse communities that call it home. Ready to dive in? Let’s explore the best spots to eat and how to channel your inner Wong Kar-Wai while you’re at it.

Navigating Chungking Mansions: Tips Before You Eat

First-timers might find Chungking Mansions a bit overwhelming—its five interconnected blocks (A to E) are packed with shops, guesthouses, and restaurants across multiple floors. Here’s how to make your food adventure smooth and enjoyable:

• Entrances and Elevators: Enter via Nathan Road and head to the elevators. Each block has its own lift system, so check signs or ask locals to find your desired spot.
• Cash is King: Many small eateries here are cash-only, so bring Hong Kong dollars (HKD).
• Timing: Lunch and dinner hours (12 PM–3 PM and 6 PM–10 PM) get busy, so arrive early to snag a seat.
• Safety: The building’s reputation has improved with added security cameras, but stay aware of your belongings.

Now, let’s get to the good stuff—the food!

Top Places to Eat in Chungking Mansions

1. Taj Mahal Club (Block A, 3/F)

• Cuisine: Indian
• Must-Try: Butter chicken, garlic naan, mango lassi
• Wong Kar-Wai Vibe: Picture Faye Wong’s quirky character from Chungking Express swaying to “California Dreamin’” as you savor the rich, creamy butter chicken. The dimly lit ambiance and bustling energy echo the film’s nocturnal Hong Kong scenes.

This long-standing spot serves up authentic North Indian dishes at wallet-friendly prices (around HK$50–80 per dish). The naan is freshly baked, and the curries pack a flavorful punch—perfect for a hearty meal after exploring the mansions.

2. Khyber Pass Mess Club (Block E, 7/F)

• Cuisine: Pakistani/Indian
• Must-Try: Chicken tikka, biryani, paratha
• Wong Kar-Wai Vibe: The narrow staircase leading to this hidden gem feels like a scene from the film’s chase sequences, with Takeshi Kaneshiro darting through crowded halls. The spicy aromas transport you to the gritty, multicultural world Wong captured.

Tucked away on the seventh floor, Khyber Pass offers a cozy, no-frills dining experience. The chicken tikka is succulent and smoky, and the biryani is a fragrant delight (expect to spend HK$60–100).

3. Delhi Club Mess (Block C, 3/F)

• Cuisine: Indian/Nepalese
• Must-Try: Momo dumplings, dal makhani, tandoori roti
• Wong Kar-Wai Vibe: The intimate setting and warm lighting could be where Tony Leung’s Cop 663 reflects on love over a quiet meal. The soulful flavors mirror the film’s bittersweet undertones.

Known for its Nepalese momos (steamed dumplings) and creamy dal, Delhi Club is a favorite among locals and travelers alike. Dishes range from HK$40–90, making it a budget-friendly stop with big taste.

4. Bismillah Kebab House (Block D, G/F)

• Cuisine: Middle Eastern/Turkish
• Must-Try: Lamb kebab, hummus, pita bread
• Wong Kar-Wai Vibe: Grab a quick bite here and imagine Brigitte Lin’s mysterious drug smuggler slipping through the crowd outside. The fast-paced service and street-level energy scream Chungking Express.

Located on the ground floor, this spot is ideal for a quick, delicious snack. The kebabs are juicy and perfectly spiced, with meals costing around HK$30–60.

5. J’s Taste of Africa (Block B, 2/F)

• Cuisine: African (Nigerian/Ghanaian)
• Must-Try: Jollof rice, egusi soup, fried plantains
• Wong Kar-Wai Vibe: The vibrant, communal vibe here feels like an untold story from the mansions—a side of Hong Kong’s diversity Wong Kar-Wai might’ve explored in a sequel.

For something different, J’s Taste of Africa brings West African flavors to the table. The jollof rice is a standout, and portions are generous (HK$50–100). It’s a hidden gem worth seeking out.

A Wong Kar-Wai-Inspired Dining Experience

To truly connect with the Chungking Express spirit, try this: Start your evening with a kebab from Bismillah Kebab House on the ground floor, soaking in the neon-lit chaos. Then, head upstairs to Taj Mahal Club for a sit-down curry, letting the moody ambiance wash over you like a Christopher Doyle-shot scene. Finish with a late-night stroll along Nathan Road, imagining the characters’ lonely yet hopeful journeys unfolding around you. Bonus points if you hum “California Dreamin’” while you eat!

What to Expect: The Chungking Mansions Dining Scene

• Affordability: Most meals range from HK$30–100, making it a budget traveler’s dream.
• Diversity: With over 120 nationalities passing through, you’ll find cuisines from South Asia, Africa, the Middle East, and beyond.
• Atmosphere: Expect small, no-frills spaces with plastic chairs, loud chatter, and the occasional tout vying for your attention.

The raw, unpolished charm is part of what makes eating here special—it’s a far cry from Hong Kong’s sleek skyscrapers, yet it’s just as authentic.

Practical Info for Your Visit

• Getting There: Take the MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui Station (Exit E) and walk 2 minutes to Nathan Road.
• Hours: Most eateries open around 11 AM and close by 10 PM, though some ground-floor spots stay open later.
• Language: English and Cantonese are widely understood, but a smile and pointing at the menu work wonders too.

Final Thoughts: Savor the Flavor and the Film

Chungking Mansions isn’t just a place to eat—it’s a sensory journey through Hong Kong’s multicultural soul, with a dash of cinematic nostalgia. Whether you’re chasing the flavors of India, Africa, or the Middle East, or simply want to walk in the footsteps of Wong Kar-Wai’s lovelorn cops, this iconic building delivers. So grab some cash, bring an open mind, and dive into one of Hong Kong’s most legendary food scenes. Who knows? You might just find your own Chungking Express moment amid the chaos.

If you’re searching for an authentic, budget-friendly dining experience in Hong Kong, the Sheung Wan Cooked Food Market should be at the top of your list. Tucked away in the bustling Sheung Wan district, this hidden gem offers a taste of local life with its vibrant stalls, diverse cuisines, and unbeatable prices. Whether you’re a foodie, a traveler, or a local looking for a quick bite, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know about visiting the Sheung Wan Cooked Food Market.

What is Sheung Wan Cooked Food Market?

Located on the second floor of the Sheung Wan Municipal Services Building at 345 Queen’s Road Central, the Sheung Wan Cooked Food Market is one of Hong Kong’s iconic cooked food centres. These centres, often perched above wet markets, are a modern evolution of the traditional dai pai dong (open-air food stalls) that once dotted the city’s streets. Here, you’ll find a lively mix of stalls serving everything from classic Cantonese dishes to international flavors, all in a casual, no-frills setting.

This market is a favorite among office workers, retirees, and curious visitors who want to experience Hong Kong’s culinary heritage without breaking the bank. Open daily from 6:00 AM to 2:00 AM, it’s a convenient spot for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or even a late-night snack.

Why Visit Sheung Wan Cooked Food Market?

• Affordable Eats: Most dishes range from HKD 50-100, making it a wallet-friendly alternative to upscale restaurants.
• Diverse Cuisine: From Hong Kong-style cha chaan teng classics to Italian, Indian, and Thai options, there’s something for every palate.
• Authentic Vibes: The bustling atmosphere, plastic stools, and communal tables offer a true taste of local life.
• Fresh Ingredients: With the wet market downstairs, stalls source the freshest produce and meats daily.

How to Get to Sheung Wan Cooked Food Market

Getting to the market is a breeze, thanks to its central location. Here’s how:

• By MTR: Take the Island Line to Sheung Wan Station and use Exit A2. From there, it’s a quick 4-minute walk along Queen’s Road Central.
• By Tram: Hong Kong’s iconic “Ding Ding” trams run along Queen’s Road Central—hop off near the Sheung Wan Municipal Services Building.
• By Foot: If you’re exploring Central or the Mid-Levels, it’s a short stroll to Sheung Wan.

Once you arrive, head to the second floor via the escalator or elevator. The market is easy to access, with clear signage and a welcoming, laid-back vibe.

Top Stalls to Try at Sheung Wan Cooked Food Market

With dozens of stalls to choose from, it can be overwhelming to decide where to eat. Here are some must-visit spots to get you started:

1. Shui Kee Café

• What to Order: Hong Kong-style French toast (HKD 26), bottled milk tea (HKD 17), or noodles with luncheon meat and fried egg.
• Why Visit: This decades-old cha chaan teng is a local legend, famous for its nostalgic breakfast offerings. The milk tea, served in retro glass bottles, is a standout.
• Hours: 7:30 AM – 5:00 PM (closed Sundays and public holidays).

2. Tung Kee (棟記)

• What to Order: Special pork knuckle or steamed chicken with ginger sauce.
• Why Visit: Perfect for meat lovers, Tung Kee delivers hearty, flavorful Cantonese dishes that pair beautifully with a bowl of rice. It’s a go-to for workers during lunch hour.
• Tip: Arrive early for dinner to snag a seat—it gets busy!

3. ABC Kitchen

• What to Order: Pasta, roasted suckling pig, or seasonal specials like foie gras.
• Why Visit: This stall puts a Hong Kong twist on Italian cuisine, offering surprisingly refined dishes in a casual setting. The menu changes every few months, so there’s always something new to try.
• Best Time: Dinner, when the full menu shines.

4. Chautari Restaurant

• What to Order: Indian curries or Nepalese momos.
• Why Visit: For a break from Chinese flavors, Chautari brings bold spices and authentic South Asian dishes to the table—all at budget-friendly prices.

What to Expect When You Visit

The Sheung Wan Cooked Food Market isn’t about fancy decor or polished service—it’s about the food and the experience. Here’s what to keep in mind:

• Seating: Tables are communal, so don’t be shy about sharing space with strangers. It’s part of the charm!
• Language: Many stalls have English menus, but pointing at dishes or using a translation app can help if needed.
• Atmosphere: Expect a lively, slightly chaotic vibe with the clatter of woks and chatter of diners. It’s not pristine, but it’s clean and full of character.
• Payment: Cash is king here—most stalls don’t accept cards, so bring some HKD.

Best Times to Visit Sheung Wan Cooked Food Market

• Breakfast (6:00 AM – 10:00 AM): Start your day with Shui Kee’s French toast and milk tea while it’s still quiet.
• Lunch (12:00 PM – 2:00 PM): Join the office crowd for a bustling experience—arrive early to avoid the rush.
• Afternoon (2:00 PM – 4:00 PM): A calmer time to explore, perfect for a leisurely meal.
• Dinner (6:00 PM – 9:00 PM): The market comes alive again with a mix of locals and visitors.

Nearby Attractions to Pair with Your Visit

Make a day of it by exploring Sheung Wan’s vibrant neighborhood:

• Man Mo Temple: A historic temple just a 5-minute walk away, perfect for a cultural stop.
• Cat Street (Upper Lascar Row): Browse antiques and quirky finds, a 10-minute stroll from the market.
• PMQ: A creative hub with shops and cafes, about 15 minutes on foot.

Tips for First-Time Visitors

1. Bring Cash: Small bills are handy for quick transactions.
2. Come Hungry: Portions are generous, and you’ll want to try multiple dishes.
3. Explore Freely: Wander the aisles to see what’s cooking—don’t just stick to one stall.
4. Dress Casually: This isn’t a fancy spot, so keep it comfortable.
5. Check Hours: Some stalls close earlier than the market’s official 2:00 AM cutoff, especially on Sundays.

Why Sheung Wan Cooked Food Market Stands Out

Unlike glitzy dining spots in Central or tourist-heavy areas, this market offers an unfiltered slice of Hong Kong life. It’s where locals go for comfort food, where ingredients are fresh from the wet market below, and where you can eat well without spending a fortune. Whether you’re craving a quick noodle bowl or an adventurous international dish, Sheung Wan Cooked Food Market delivers.

Plan Your Visit Today

Ready to dive into one of Hong Kong’s best-kept culinary secrets? The Sheung Wan Cooked Food Market is waiting to welcome you with open woks and steaming plates. Grab your cash, bring your appetite, and head to 345 Queen’s Road Central for a meal you won’t forget. Have a favorite stall or dish? Let us know in the comments below—we’d love to hear your recommendations!